Joan and I left on our more-or-less annual fall trip on the 9th of September and arrived back home last Friday evening (the 25th). As usual, we towed our teardrop camper and stayed mainly in parks; filling in with nights in commercial campgrounds when necessary.
This year we headed east and north… to Maine, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. We visited Acadia National Park, the Bay of Fundy National Park, Cape Brenton Highlands National Park and many points in between. As is our habit, we stayed off the highways and traveled mainly on the local roads, hugging the coast on this trip.
Thinking that this trip would be mostly about the landscape (and not about wildlife), I brought along my camera obscura in addition to my regular camera gear. This thought turned out to be true. Although we did spend time watching birds in a number of places and whales from shore at the Head Harbor Light on Campobello Island, NB the opportunities to make good wildlife photographs were few.
If one is going to photograph the landscape in this part of the world, one will eventually point your lens towards a lighthouse… or two… or three… or more! I certainly did!
My favorite lighthouse — not for its architecture, but for the people — was the Cape d’Or light in Advocate Harbor, NS. Cape d’Or is located at the head of the Bay of Fundy right where the bay splits into two “forks”. We arrived at this lighthouse one foggy morning shortly after breaking camp and parked at the end of the road.
Getting out of the car, the first thing we noticed was the noise of moving water. My thought was “this is going to be a good place to photograph crashing waves”. Heading steeply down the drive to the lighthouse proper, the noise of the water got louder but there was no surf to be found! The noise was caused by the Dory Rips, roiling currents caused by the tidal movement of water around the point. We had timed our visit perfectly to observe this phenomenon. By the time we left, a couple of hours later, the waters were quiet.
In addition to the lighthouse, we were pleasantly surprised to find that the keepers house was now a guesthouse and restaurant. When we arrived at the light, I began photographing mainly with the camera obscura. We seemed to be the only souls around although there was music gently wafting from the restaurant. After a few minutes, a fellow poked his head out of the door and shouted out to me asking if I was so-and-so. I said that I was not and continued to photograph.
When I was done, I headed into the restaurant to introduce myself. The fellow who shouted out was Darcy, the chef/proprietor. He said that there is a guy who looks like me (scary!) and sometimes photographs at Cape d’Or with a large format camera. Darcy was in the process of cleaning up after breakfast — the overnight guests had left shortly before we had arrived — and he offered us coffee and the last of the four-berry crisp leftover from the previous evening. We gladly accepted and spent some time chatting with Darcy and his girlfriend (whose name I don’t know but who is a medical student at the Univ. of Rochester).
As we went to leave, Darcy would accept no payment for the “leftovers” as he put it. (I’ll be sending him a few photographs!). On our way back up the hill to the parking lot, we met another couple on the way down. They would get no berry crisp… timing is everything!!!
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